Surfing involves a degree of rigamarole. Unless you live right on the beach, you have to find a way to transport the equipment which typically involves expensive contraptions. You have to carry a tub for your wet suit, wax for your board, flip flops for your feet and shampoo for your hair. And it takes you a good couple of hours away from email, phone and responsibilities. Which is exactly why a neurotic like me needs to surf.
Time stops when you’re in the water. There is only one focus and that is on the present.
Summer waves, which are typically mild and rolling rock you on the water. God reaches her hand down from heaven, tipping the basinet back and forth in a soothing fashion.
The salt water has an incredibly healing quality. It can be bitingly cold in winter but soft and warm during the summer as it takes on the quality of glass.
A neurotic like me surfs because when I look up at the sky from the sea, I hear all creation sing.
Yes, there is a fear factor when it comes to surfing. Never mind that one can get injured by a board or eaten by a shark. I worry about the key in my wet suit falling out or perhaps worse, not working once I set it back into its electronic device. Because I am a neurotic and worry about things like this.
But then a wave slowly moves towards me and I get myself in position. And if I’m so lucky to be in the right place at the right time and the wave takes me, I feel the effortlessness of being; the magic of letting something bigger than me support me. I walk on water and realize this is exactly how God intended living to be.