Why A Neurotic Like Me Surfs

30 May

Surfing involves a degree of rigamarole. Unless you live right on the beach, you have to find a way to transport the equipment which typically involves expensive contraptions. You have to carry a tub for your wet suit, wax for your board, flip flops for your feet and shampoo for your hair. And it takes you a good couple of hours away from email, phone and responsibilities. Which is exactly why a neurotic like me needs to surf.

Time stops when you’re in the water. There is only one focus and that is on the present.

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Summer waves, which are typically mild and rolling rock you on the water. God reaches her hand down from heaven, tipping the basinet back and forth in a soothing fashion.

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The salt water has an incredibly healing quality. It can be bitingly cold in winter but soft and warm during the summer as it takes on the quality of glass.

A neurotic like me surfs because when I look up at the sky from the sea, I hear all creation sing.

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Yes, there is a fear factor when it comes to surfing. Never mind that one can get injured by a board or eaten by a shark. I worry about the key in my wet suit falling out or perhaps worse, not working once I set it back into its electronic device. Because I am a neurotic and worry about things like this.

But then a wave slowly moves towards me and I get myself in position. And if I’m so lucky to be in the right place at the right time and the wave takes me, I feel the effortlessness of being; the magic of letting something bigger than me support me. I walk on water and realize this is exactly how God intended living to be.

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2 Responses to “Why A Neurotic Like Me Surfs”

  1. compressor July 7, 2013 at 3:22 pm #

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  2. lisesletters July 9, 2013 at 12:18 am #

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